We had the good fortune of connecting with Stephen Holmes and we’ve shared our conversation below.

Hi Stephen, is there something you can share with us that those outside of the industry might not be aware of?
“Specialty Coffee” is it’s own designation in the coffee industry. Most coffee falls into the category of commodity coffee—mass-produced, low-quality, and scored below 80 points. Think first wave (Folgers, Maxwell House), where convenience ruled, or second wave (Starbucks), where café culture grew but beans were over-roasted.

The term “specialty coffee” isn’t just marketing—it’s an official industry qualification. Only coffees that score 80 points or higher on a 100-point scale can use it. That’s why commodity brands legally can’t call their coffee “specialty.” Instead, they hide behind vague words like “gourmet” or “artisan.”

At Peregrine Coffee Roasters, we are seeking to show the general populous what specialty coffee is. We are doing that simply because the experience of coffee can be far more enjoyable than what most people are used to. We are part of a movement that treats coffee as a craft. We source from real farmers, in a direct trade model, and roast with precision to highlight the unique character of each bean. In the same way that beer just isn’t beer anymore, or food isn’t just food, coffee isn’t just coffee.

Let’s talk shop? Tell us more about your career, what can you share with our community?
To say that coffee can be considered art might prompt scoffs or laughter from skeptics. Yet, art is fundamentally the intentional creation of something by an individual—and by that definition, coffee qualifies. While you cannot drink a canvas painting, you can certainly engage with it philosophically. In a similar way, coffee serves as a kind of canvas. A farmer nurtures a coffee plant for years before it bears fruit. The cherries it produces are harvested only when perfectly ripe, each containing two seeds shaped with flat faces and rounded edges. These seeds undergo a meticulous process: they are either dried naturally over several weeks or washed and fermented in water for 24 to 48 hours—or longer. A single misstep in this delicate stage can ruin the entire batch. Once processed, the coffee is dried to approximately 11% moisture content and carefully packaged for transport.

At that point, the farmer’s art is handed over to me—the roaster. With one careless decision, I could destroy all that effort in ten minutes. I could burn his canvas completely black so that you can’t tell what he painted. That has been the general approach to coffee for far too long. But with skill, patience, and experience, I can bring out the bean’s natural complexity and elevate its character, just as an artist enhances the depth and color of a painting. Yet the process doesn’t end there. The proverbial painting is completed in the café, where the barista—like the painter adding the final, delicate brushstrokes—prepares the coffee with care and precision. Every step, from seed to cup, is executed with intentionality, respect, and a deep appreciation for the craft. This is why coffee is more than just a beverage—it is art.

If you had a friend visiting you, what are some of the local spots you’d want to take them around to?
One of the best hikes that I’ve found in Colorado is the trail from Music Pass to Lower Sand Lake in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. It’s an intermediate hike with a big reward early on—just about an hour in, you reach the highest point of the trail with sweeping views all around. From there, you drop into a quiet valley and work your way across before climbing up again to match that elevation on the other side. Tijeras Peak rises sharply above Lower Sand Lake, its jagged summit cutting into the sky and instantly grabbing your attention. I love taking people there because it’s both accessible and incredibly scenic. A few years ago, I brought my mom, dad, and siblings on that trail—it ended up being one of my favorite memories with my dad before he passed away.

Who else deserves some credit and recognition?
Ben Helt, the previous owner of Benettis in south Kansas City, was a formative person in my life that showed me what coffee could be. His friendship and willingness to kindly show me his roaster operation and employ great people that cared about the craft gave me the impetus to start Peregrine many years later. Here’s to you Ben!

Website: https://peregrineroasters.com

Instagram: @peregrineroasters

Youtube: @peregrineroasters

Image Credits
All Photo Credit: Steve Willis Fine Art

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